Soap Safety- Working with lye is no joke!

#1 rule!  ALWAYS pour NaOH/KOH into water. NEVER the other way around. Pouring water into NaOH/KOH will create an explosive reaction.

Lye will react with some metals. Do not use aluminum or tin. Ceramic, stoneware, heat-resistant plastic, or glass are best for mixing and storing lye. I use stainless steel, but must be careful of the handle as it can get quite hot. However, I prefer it over glass as I would certainly break it.

Test your plastic container before you mix lye. Place it upside down in your sink and pour very hot water over it. If it becomes soft or bendy, do not use it! If it holds up firmly, you’re good to go.

The reaction of mixing NaOH/KOH in water will generate heat. Be careful when touching the bowl/jar and use heat resistant items to stir.

Setting up your work area

Remove clutter! The less that you have to bump in to and knock around, the better. It’s important to protect the surfaces that you are working on. Drop clothes can be a great way to protect anything that you can’t remove from your counter/table, like cutting boards or appliances. 

Find a pet/kid sitter while you are working with lye and raw soap. Pets can be secured in another room, if you can’t find help. Up to you if your kids can be shut in another room without issues. 

VENTILATION! You are creating a chemical reaction. Don’t breathe the vapors coming off of the lye mixture as it reacts. If you can mix outside, even better. I mix mine under the hood of my stove at the highest power.

Personal Protective Gear

Now that you’ve protected your work space and put all pets and little ones away, you must protect yourself. Cover every bit of skin that you can. I often wear a man’s dress shirt, flipped around backwards. Then I can pop the collar up and protect my neck. Gloves are a must, and should be tucked in to or over long sleeves. Be sure to wear goggles!! Tie hair back. Long pants and socks/shoes are a good idea, in case of any splashing.

NaOH and KOH can come in tiny pellets or bigger flakes. No matter which sort you choose, it will get powdery at the bottom of the container it comes in. Wear a mask! I mistakenly breathed in powder from the bottom of a container and wow! Bloody, scabby grossness. If it did that to my nose and sinuses, imagine what it did to my lungs. 

Choosing pellets vs flakes

The tiny pellets are a good option for pouring, as they mix easily. However, they can be impossible to control. In the winter, static can make them fly all over! Hence, making the drop cloth imperative. 

The tiny pellets are sneaky! Since NaOH or KOH won’t react without moisture, I didn’t know that I had a tiny pellet on my lip. After my soaping project, I felt a bit of an itch, probably from the pellets reacting with perspiration. Then I licked my lip. That fully activated it! I was away from my sink by then, so it burned a decent little hole in my lip before I was able to rinse. 

The flakes are easier to pour, but be careful in high humidity. NaOH/KOH will absorb moisture from the air, and the flakes are more likely to clump before and after pouring in to your water. This can mimic the “pouring water into lye” catastrophe. You will get a blow up!! Pour in to water slowly and carefully, stirring continuously to be sure that the flakes or pellets do not clump in the bottom. 

You got some on you! What do you do?

If you get the dry NaOH/KOH on your clothing or skin, use a dry cloth or paper towel to brush into a sink or a garbage can. Once the dry flakes or pellets are removed, discard contaminated clothing or rinse skin under cool water to remove any residue.

For lye water and raw soap splashes, rinse skin continuously with cool water for several minutes. Many suggest a vinegar rinse, as it neutralizes lye. However, this neutralizing process is a reaction between the basic lye and the acetic acid in vinegar that causes heat (an exothermic reaction). This can burn! Therefore, where vinegar may work for tiny splatters and residue on surfaces, I do not recommend it for rinsing skin after contamination or for large spills on surfaces. 

If you get it in your eyes, rinse with cool water for at least 5 minutes and get yourself to a doctor asap! Do not take this lightly!! You are risking permanent damage to your eyes. Also get to a doctor if it splashed into your nose or mouth.

If ingested, call poison control immediately at 1-800-222-1222. Do not make the person throw up unless told to do so by poison control. 

Securing your area and your body takes the scary out of working with lye and raw soap. Start with small batches, as small spills are easier to contain that giant catastrophes.

What is soap?

What is soap?

Soap is made through a process called saponification. Simply put, lye + fat (lipids) = soap. More techinically, an alkali (lye) is blended with the acids in lipids, resulting in a chemical reaction. 3 mole of alkali meet 1 mole of lipid, creating 3 moles soap and 1 mole glycerol.  A mole is a unit amount in chemistry used to measure large amounts of a small entity, like atoms & molecules.

Many commercial soap companies will remove the glycerol (glycerin), as removal increases shelf life. However, glycerol is a humectant that helps skin lock in moisture and draws moisture from the air, so it’s a great component to leave in soap. The removed glycerol from commercial soaps is often added to other cosmetic products. Hand-crafted soaps typically leave in this naturally occuring result of the soaping process.

How does soap clean? 

One end of a soap molecule is hydrophilic (attracted to water) and the other is hydrophobic (repelled by water). The hydrophobic end binds with oil/dirt/grime, while the hydrophilic attaches to the water and pulls the dirty stuff off of you and down the drain.

What is lye? 

Lye is an aqueous sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution or an aqueous potassium hydroxide (KOH) solution. Sodium hydroxide results in bar soaps, while potassium hydroxide results in a gel that is easily diluted in water for liquid soaps. Paper Street will occasionally use a 10% NaOH & 90% KOH solution, resulting in a “thicker” liquid soap.

I will cover the safety elements of working with lye in the next blog post.

How do you know how much lye to use to saponify your oils? 

Every oil brings something unique to a soap. Once you’ve chosen your oils and batch size, how do you know how much lye to use? Each oil has its own saponification value. You can find the values and do the calculations manually, but I suggest using a saponification calculation program to check your work. After a few months of soaping, I found it reliable to simply use these calculators and skip doing the math myself. http://soapcalc.net/default.asp is a great option. I recommend reading the Getting Started and Soap Calc Directions before starting. In a future blog post I will use this calculator to create a simple soap recipe, so you can see how I use it.

Another great option is the calculator provided by Hand-crafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild. https://www.soapguild.org/lye-calc.php I find the soapcalc version to be a little more user friendly.