Castor Oil Myths and Truths

Castor Oil Myths and Truths

Black Castor Seeds

If you’ve heard rumors about castor oil being derived from petroleum or animal products, it’s time to set the record straight. Castor oil is a natural, plant-based oil extracted from the castor bean — a powerhouse straight from nature. Its use dates back centuries, cherished in beauty and wellness traditions across the globe. This versatile oil has earned its place as a time-tested staple, but what exactly makes it so special? And how can it enhance your hair and skincare routine? Stick around to uncover the true beauty of castor oil!

What Is Castor Oil?

Castor oil comes from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant, often called the castor bean plant. These seeds, adorned with striking patterns, are cold-pressed to extract their nutrient-rich oil. Cold pressing helps retain the oil’s natural properties by avoiding high temperatures that can diminish its quality.

This translucent, golden oil is known for its thick, viscous consistency and high nutrient profile. Its star ingredient? Ricinoleic acid — a rare fatty acid that sets castor oil apart from other botanical oils. Packed with skin and hair-loving nutrients, castor oil is nature’s gift for hydration, nourishment, and protection.

Fun Fact:

Did you know castor oil has been used in ancient Egypt? Cleopatra herself reportedly utilized it in her beauty rituals. Talk about a timeless treasure!

Why Castor Oil Is Great for Hair and Skin

Castor oil has gained iconic status in natural beauty — and for good reason! From deeply moisturizing the skin to promoting luscious hair growth, here’s why it deserves a prime spot in your routine.

1. Deep Moisturization

If dry skin or a flaky scalp is your nemesis, castor oil is a game-changer. Thanks to its high concentration of ricinoleic acid, it locks in moisture and prevents dehydration. Whether your skin needs a hydration boost, or your scalp is craving nourishment, castor oil creates a barrier that seals in hydration.

  • Hydrates dry patches on the face and body.

  • Restores moisture to brittle hair and ends.

  • Provides long-lasting hydration for the scalp to combat dryness.

2. Promotes Hair and Lash Growth

Dreaming of healthier, fuller locks or longer, thicker lashes? Castor oil supports hair follicle health, laying the foundation for stronger and shinier hair. Regular use can help improve scalp conditions and encourage hair growth.

  • Massage it into your scalp to enhance circulation and strengthen roots. Start light! You may need to shampoo twice.

  • Apply to your eyebrows and eyelashes for bold, defined growth.

  • Mix with lighter oils (like coconut or almond oil) for easier application and extra benefits.

3. Soothes and Balances the Skin

Castor oil is more than just hydrating; it’s a soothing elixir for your skin. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, it’s excellent for calming irritation and addressing mild skin concerns.

  • Reduces redness and soothes irritation.

  • Helps with acne-prone or sensitive skin by fighting off bacteria.

  • Eases the discomfort of eczema and dermatitis with its natural soothing power.

4. Supports a Healthy Scalp

A healthy scalp is the foundation of great hair, and castor oil delivers just that. Whether you’re battling dandruff or dryness, its nourishing properties go to work to restore balance.

  • Improves blood circulation to the scalp for healthier growth.

  • Helps reduce dandruff and flakiness.

  • Conditions the scalp for soft, shiny hair.

How to Use Castor Oil in Your Routine

Castor oil is incredibly versatile and easy to incorporate into your beauty routine. Here are some simple ways to reap its rewards:

For Hair

  • Warm a few drops of castor oil between your hands and apply to your scalp, massaging gently to boost circulation.

  • Mix it with lighter oils like jojoba or argan oil for better spreadability and additional nutrients.

  • To treat split ends, coat the ends of your hair with a small amount of castor oil before bed.

For Skin

  • Use castor oil as a natural moisturizer by gently massaging it onto your face or body.

  • Mix it with your favorite lotion for an extra hydration boost.

  • Calm dry, irritated areas by applying castor oil directly to the skin.

For Lashes & Brows

Want fuller lashes and brows? Use a clean spoolie brush or cotton swab to apply castor oil before bed. Just a tiny amount goes a long way in promoting healthier, thicker hair over time.

Addressing the Myths About Castor Oil

Before we wrap up, let's debunk a few lingering myths about castor oil:

Myth 1: Castor Oil Is Synthetic or Derived from Petroleum

Truth: Castor oil is 100% natural and plant-based. Its origin lies in the castor bean plant, not in any synthetic process.

Myth 2: Castor Oil Is Harmful to Use

Truth: Castor oil is safe to use for most people! However, as with any new product, patch-test first to avoid allergic reactions.

Myth 3: Castor Oil Works Overnight

Truth: While results won’t come overnight, consistency pays off. For the best outcome, incorporate castor oil into your routine for at least a few weeks.

Discover the Magic of Castor Oil

Castor oil is an unsung hero of the natural beauty world. Its ability to hydrate, soothe, and promote healthy hair and skin makes it a standout for anyone seeking clean, effective ingredients.

At [Your Brand Name], we believe in celebrating natural, plant-based goodness. That's why our organic castor oil is cold-pressed, ensuring you receive all its rich nutrients and benefits — exactly as nature intended. Whether you’re a skincare minimalist or a DIY beauty enthusiast, castor oil is here to transform your routine.

Are you ready to experience the benefits for yourself?

Shop our premium organic castor oil now and elevate your beauty routine with a touch of nature's finest!

Gentle Yet Mighty: The Best Natural Oils to Remove Waterproof Mascara

Some of the best individual oils for removing waterproof mascara include coconut oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil. All of which are considered effective due to their ability to break down the waterproof components of mascara, making them easy to wipe away with a cotton pad. 

Key points to remember:

  • Consider your skin type:

    While most of these oils are generally gentle, some like coconut oil might be too comedogenic (pore-clogging) for certain skin types. ~I’m one of these people. I can’t use coconut oil on my face except when a small ratio of a recipe.

  • Always follow up with a cleanser:

    After using oil to remove makeup, be sure to wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any oil residue. 

  • Gentle application:

    Apply the oil with a cotton pad and gently press onto your lashes to avoid irritation. 

    ~ Cotton balls and paper towel were WAY too scratchy for me. My personal choice are those suuuper soft powder puffs.

    Don’t forget to try different oils to find what is best for you! A recommendation is great, but nothing beats your preference for your own skin. I personally love high-oleic sunflower seed oil as a makeup remover.

    Every skin type is unique, so the best way to find your perfect match is to experiment and see what works best for you. Grab an oil that intrigues you, give it a try, and enjoy a gentle, natural way to remove even the most stubborn mascara—your skin will thank you!

Why different prices?

I got a great question the other day that I’m surprised that I don’t hear more often. The cusomer wondered why some bars are priced at $2.50, some $6, while others are up to $10. In case any of you are wondering, here is the difference.

We’ll start with the $2.50 bars. These 1 ingredient bars pack a powerful cleaning punch, but don’t dry out hands. Great for washing dishes and hand wash items. These were designed to be quick and easy to make to keep labor costs low and ingredient costs reasonable, in order to price them in a range perfect for people on a tighter budget. It is a great quality, non-irritating, all natural soap bar.

Then we have a step up to unique ingredients and designs that offer more from the bar and/or require more knowledge and technique from the maker. These bars will fall in to the $5 and $6 range.

Last, but definitely not least, we have the decadent bars. Rich in the best ingredients you can get your hands on and/or using the most complicated soaping techniques that can add hours to the crafting time. These bars will be marked $7 or more.

Hope this helps and thanks again for all of your support!

Let's talk salts

Ever wonder why we use different salts in the bath bombs? Here’s your answer!

Different Nutrients!

Epsom salts are technically not salt,, but a mineral containing magnesium in large amounts. They are called “salt” due to their crystal looking appearance.

Sea salt on the other hand is true salt obtained through evaporating sea water. As you can imagine, sea salts contain all sorts of nutrients in small amounts, including zinc, iron, and potassium that you will absorb through your skin

Both have anti-inflammatory properties, but very different nutrients. That is why you find us using both in our recipes!

Types of Soap

One of the most common questions that I get is about the different sorts of soap; melt & pour, cold process, and hot process.

Yuzu Melt & Pour Soap. Make at home! Kits available from Paper Street Soap for $55.

Yuzu Melt & Pour Soap. Make at home! Kits available from Paper Street Soap for $55.

Melt & Pour soap is commercially produced. It can vary greatly in how gentle and “natural” it is, depending on the recipe and methods used by the manufacturer. It may be a true soap (made with lye and lipids), a detergent (not produced with oils/fats but is a highly processed surfactant), or a combination of both. 

These soaps are formulated to melt at a certain point, and commonly will have additives to aid in melting, texture, and performance. Upon firming back up, they are immediately ready for use, unlike traditional soap. 

Melt and Pour is great for making unique designs. However, the nature of melt and pour attracts water, making this soap sticky in high humidity. It is possible for a melt and pour to attract enough water that it disintegrates over time.

Cold Process Musgrove Imperial Stout Beer Soap

Cold Process Musgrove Imperial Stout Beer Soap

True soap is made from a chemical reaction between lipids and lye water and can be created through cold or hot process. Cold process mixes the lye and lipids and allows the soap to process over the next few days in a mold.

Cold process soaps are safe to use within a few days, but need anywhere from 1 week to 4 weeks to harden. Some unique recipes may take several months, like our spin swirl designs.

Hot Process Resurrection Stout Beer Soap

Hot Process Resurrection Stout Beer Soap

During hot process, soaps are left to cook for several hours, speeding up the saponification (soap making) process. Hot process soaps are safe to use right away.

As you can see, the textures of cold and hot process are quite different. Cold process tends to be hard and smooth, where hot process may have a spongier appearance and feel. However, if left to cure for long enough, hot process will become just as firm and long lasting as cold process soaps.

The quality of any form of soap is up to the creator.

A poor recipe for melt and pour will stick in molds, melt weird, create glycerin crystals, melt while sitting in a warm/humid room, etc. A poor recipe for a true soap may also melt, have chunks of unprocessed oils, or even have too much or too little lye creating gritty or irritating soap. 

Some people express concern over using a true soap, out of worry that there will be lye left in the final bar. Only the most inexperienced soaper will make this mistake. Soapers leave on average 5% of their oils unprocessed, meaning that even after all of the lye has processed there are still moisturizing oils left behind.


Clarified Champagne Soap. We clarify our bars after using the hot process method, but you can clarify a fully saponified cold process soap.

Clarified Champagne Soap. We clarify our bars after using the hot process method, but you can clarify a fully saponified cold process soap.

Experienced soapers will work with a larger ratio of lye to lipids for very specific recipes and are practiced in the precision that it takes to create a quality bar. Our clarified bars are almost entirely saponified lipids to make the bar as clear as possible.

Here at Paper Street Soap, we pride ourselves on quality products using all 3 of these methods.

Which Soap Class is for You?

Paper Street will offer a variety of classes for kids and adults. Click here for scheduled classes

Kids

Anyone under the age of 18 will be best in our melt & pour classes. They will range from very simple to complex. These complex courses may even interest some adults.

You will not keep the mold for the melt and pour classes, but there will be molds for sale, if you would like to make more at home. You may also buy melt and pour soap base for use later.

A melt and pour certification will also be available for little ones.

Adult Classes

For those that are interested in cold process bars, hot process liquid soap, or hot process clarified bars, Paper Street is excited to offer a range of courses.

Beginner classes will be offered in Mini, Medium, and Full size.

  • Mini classes will use a small crock pot and make 3 bars of 3.5-4 oz bar soaps.

  • Medium classes will use a full size crock pot and make 6 of the same size bars from the mini class.

  • Full size classes will use a full size tray mold, which can make 8-10 large bar soaps, depending on how you choose to cut them.

You get to keep your mold from the class. If you already have a mold from a previous class, you get a $20 discount on any other soap class you take by bringing your own!

Beginner class will include some designs, like drop swirls and poured swirls, and thin, accent lines.

Advanced Level Soap Classes

Advanced soap classes will use full sized molds, the size and shape depending on the project. Ranging from Taiwanese swirls to complicated layers.

Simple Soap Bar Recipe

Simple Soap Bar Blog Post

I’ve made up a bar soap recipe with just coconut oil and olive oil pomace, both available on Amazon. I’ll also include the modification so you can use regular olive oil, rather than the pomace. There will be a note at the bottom about making this recipe with hydrosol. 

Babbel- Feel free to skip. ~ When I started soaping, molds were not easily available and I was intimidated by the idea of making my own. Therefore, I chose to start with liquid soaps. However, now molds are super easy to get ahold of and the recipes are quite fast and easy compared to diluting and neutralizing liquid soaps. So we are starting with a bar soap, rather than liquid. 

I chose this recipe because of its easy to find ingredients, as well as the well rounded soap bar that the ingredients make together. Both coconut oil and olive oil pomace make great bases for bar and liquid soaps. 

Now back to the important stuff….

Tools

  • Soap Mold: This is my favorite beginner mold and this recipe will be for 2 of these molds https://www.amazon.com/Ozera-Cavities-Silicone-Biscuit-Chocolate/dp/B00Q7T5H38/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+soap+mold&qid=1586897910&sr=8-2

  • Scale

  • Cutting Board/Cookie Sheet/Cooling Rack - something to set molds on 

  • High Heat Proof Container for mixing lye (special glass, plastic, ceramic, or stainless steel)

  • Heat Proof/Long Handle spoon or spatula for mixing lye

  • Crock Pot - if you don’t have a crock pot, here’s a great video of  beginner soap using a microwave to melt oils. Go ahead and use that technique to melt your coconut oil. https://www.soapguild.org/how-to/make-soap/first-cp-soap

  • Immersion Blender

  • pH test strips 

  • Thermometer, candy/meat/laser/etc, just a thermometer that you can submerge in liquid to take temp. (Note 1 is no thermometer method)

  • Ladle or Measuring Cup for scooping soap in to mold

  • Goggle/Gloves/Face Mask/Protective Clothing

  • NaOH

  • Spring or Distilled Water (no soft water or city water) (Note 2 - hydrosol replacement)

  • Coconut Oil

  • Olive Oil Pomace (Note 3-  is with olive oil)

  • Essential Oil

Recipe for 42 oz soap (includes oils, lye and scent) for 2 molds (below 30 ounces can get difficult in a full size crock pot)

Water 10.26 oz

NaOH 4.07 oz

Coconut Oil 13.5 oz

Olive Oil Pomace 13.5 oz

Any Essential Oil 0.8 - 1.6 oz

Melt Oils

I usually melt my oils (minus essential oils. they will be added later) on warm in the crock pot. Once they are melted, turn off the crock pot and let the melted oils sit. Let them cool to under 100 degrees fahrenheit. (Note 4- making lye water first)

SUPER IMPORTANT - Have 2 separate spatulas/spoons to stir your oils and lye or wash your spatula/spoon between them. Never contaminate that other with your spoon.

Make Lye Water

Now is the time to create the lye solution. After you have put on all of your safety gear, covered any exposed skin, and found a well ventilated place (I mix under my oven hood on high), very slowly stir the NaOH into the water. Do not breathe the vapors. Be sure to secure a mask for pouring and measuring the NaOH. Any powder breathed can be quite harmful.

The lye solution will be HOT and cloudy at first. You always want to wait until it has cleared up before using. We will use our candy thermometer to determine when the solution is ready for our recipe.

It is at this point when moving or handling the jug of hot lye solution, I always use heat resistant gloves that have grippy rubber on the palms and fingers. I take every possible precaution in ensuring that it will not slip in my grip or burn me. If you don’t have access to grippy gloves, I suggest making the lye solution in the location where you can let it sit and cool. 

NEVER leave cooling lye solution unguarded. It’s super boring. Grab a book, some work, music, whatever will help you pass the time. It’s a great time to measure out your essential oils. 

Soaping

Any time you work with the lye solution, even if it is just stirring, wear your safety gear and clothing. 

You want the lye solution and the melted oils to be as close to the same temperature as possible within the range of 90-120 degrees fahrenheit. As your lye solution approaches 120, warm your oils slowly until they are both in the mentioned temperature range. (Note 5) It may not be necessary to heat oils additionally after melting. Check the temperature of the oils before adding more heat. Be sure to rinse your thermometer when switching from lye solution to oils.

Before you pour your lye solution into the melted oils, make sure that your molds are set up on the cookie sheet or surface of your choice next to your crock pot. Double check that your essential oils are within reach.

Put your immersion blender into the melted oils, tip the blender to burp out any bubbles. 

Turn on the immersion blender and very slowly pour lye solution into the melted oils to avoid splashing. 

Blend thoroughly until you find a medium trace. I like the way that this blog describes the stages. http://www.bathalchemylab.com/2016/03/knowing-your-trace-in-soap.html. Soap should be a pudding consistency. A drop from the immersion blender should sit on the surface.

This is where you add your essential oils. Blend in thoroughly. If you notice separating, continue to blend until mixture stays smooth. A quick google search on whether or not your essential oil choice creates issues in cold process soap may help. 

Scoop soap into molds. Smooth with spoon or tap cookie sheet on counter to smooth. Store in a cool, dry place. I’ll go over how colorant can be impacted by storage during curing in another blog.

Unmolding

Let your soap sit at least 48 hours before unmolding.  When impatient, and the bars are sticking, you can freeze them for an hour and then pop from mold. 

Leave in a cool, dry place for about 4 weeks (curing process).

You can leave the bars in the mold through the entire cure, until they have shrunk up and come loose on their own, which result in very shiny bars. This will take 3-4 weeks in dry weather and 4-6 weeks in high humidity.

Curing and pH Testing

Saponification is complete in most recipes within the first 48 hours. The majority of a full cure (3-6 weeks) is water evaporation and hardening. If you haven’t made any mistakes in your recipe, you’ll be fine to use it after the full cure period of 3-6 weeks. However, it’s best to be safe than sorry.

Perform a pH test on a test bar with the strips. You want your soap to have a pH between 7 and 10.

Pick out a test bar. You will use this bar as your tester again, if later testing is needed. One method is to wet each side until sudsy and dip the test strip in the bubbles. You want to test each portion of the bar in case there was lye pooling in any specific area. That could be a red flag to an issue with the entire batch.

Another method is to dilute some soap into a smidge of hot water and dip the test strip in there. I find this to be the least accurate.

People argue that the strip tests are both inaccurate and therefore swear by the Zap Test. Place a bar against the side of your tongue. If you feel a slight zap, that’s lye and you have to wait. No zap, and you are good to go.

Some choose to cut the bar and test the middle as well.

I prefer placing the strip on the bar, and only test the middle if I suspect that something is wrong.

 

All done! Enjoy your soap! 

Note 1 - No thermometer? No problem! Simply leave your oils and lye to cool to the point that you can feel no heat when you touch the outside of the container. I like to leave the oils out over night, and then pop the lye solution in the fridge to cool it down to room temperature.

Note 2 - Simply replace any amount of water with your desired amount of hydrosol up to 100%. 

If you want to keep the hydrosol from getting too hot and preserve some of the skin loving nutrients, chill or freeze the hydrosol first. Sprinkle just a bit of the NaOH over the frozen hydrosol, and shove around until it dissolves and you’ll start to notice melting. Continue until all lye is used.

Another, perhaps easier method, is to dissolve the NaOH in a small amount of water and then add the chilled (not frozen) hydrosol after all of the NaOH is dissolved.


Note 3 - Olive Oil rather than olive oil pomace will result in a softer bar. Just leave it in the mold longer and you’ll be fine. Olive oil requires a smidge more NaOH to saponify, so you’ll use 4.09 oz of NaOH instead of 4.07. The larger your recipe, the larger difference you’ll notice.

Note 4 - You may absolutely make your lye water first. As it cools and gets near the 100 degree mark, melt your hard oils (coconut). Then pour in your liquid oils (olive oil pomace). Check the temperature. If below 85-90 degrees, heat just a bit more. When temperatures are within range, you may begin.


Note 5 - Specific recipes, like the soap frosting, require the mixtures to be room temperature or 75-80 degree fahrenheit. Much more heat than 130-150 degrees may cause the batch to firm up too quickly and be difficult to put in the mold. 

In my experience, having your lye solution and melted oils too far apart in temperature will create blending issues. That can lead to pooled pockets of lye and ricing. Both of which can ruin a batch. Too cold of lye water will solidify harder oils and butters and also create blending issues.